Trip to Lijiang, Yunnan

Sunday we didn't have any plan. I walked around the old town, did a little sightseeing. After lunch I settled myself in a small cafe house drenched in sunshine, trying to read Huckleberry Finn. The high altitude sunlight was strong. I thought I might get sunburn by sitting there too long. Not that I had to read Huckleberry Finn now, but it was suggested everywhere that reading a book in a small cafe is a very important part of a trip to Lijiang. Just like that when a tour
guide pointing out a site with some anecdote which does not make much sense for me but I always try to show some interest, now I am doing this so I can say I did it to anyone who suggest that I should. I conform to convention easily.

Monday we didn't book any trip to go out of town either. I rented a bicycle and rode it to another town. The one-way distance is about 5 miles. The road is perfect for biking. And the weather is dry and warm - just perfect. On the road I could see the snow on the top of Yulong mountain. After a while I felt the mountain is like a huge picture hanging at the end of road. The sight of it became surreal. Maybe for the high altitude, I was a little tired. Instead of wandering into a tea shop to rest as I planned, I bought a bottled water and sat on a stone bridge, next to a Naxi old man playing traditional instrument. It turned out he was put up there by management to be part of the scenery. The instrument looks a crude hand-made Er-hu, with only two strings. The trick works out well. His presence adds a lot of credibility to the story that tourists are sold. The simple tone was droning in the bright sunlight. I watched the tourists passing by with their guides who say almost identical words to their clients. Then I felt I should ride back.

At night it was cold. With help from a cafe owner, I found a small bar with the size of a regular Manhattan studio. The owner, whose name is Lu Ping, is the only singer and plays guitar. His girlfriend works as waitress and plays the drum. A small fireplace sits in the middle of room warming up the whole bar. Audience had been small: including me, three at the first night, two the second. Lu Ping plays guitar well, and writes his own songs. He doesn't talk much but has a very earnest
manner. We drank some beer, chatted a little first, then he stepped to the front of room, singing until around 11. We the audience were sitting around the fireplace, sipping our beers. He told me the bar would be packed in summer night.

Many people I spoke with in Lijiang would get philosophical at some point in our conversation. It seems Lijiang the place has inspiring power on a lot of people. They tell me they feel relaxed here, become less materialistic, and have a brand new look on life. At first I was trying to argue that they could have the same psychological transformation anywhere if they want. Granted this is a beautiful
place but the same law of physics and human behavior applies here as it does on the rest of the planet. Soon I realized my words were almost blasphemous here, and learned quickly to just smile back when people talking about their inner peace enthusiastically. People bestow an almost worshipful love to this place.